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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary triumph.